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PRAIA DO SARGI – 5 MAY 2020 – LOVE ON THE WAVES

07 May 2020

PRAIA DO SARGI – 5 MAY 2020 – LOVE ON THE WAVES

Lavinia got on the surfboard for the first time in her life today. We laughed a lot. 

Her falls were so funny and the face she had when she got out of the water after being tumbled over by a wave is hard to describe. 

Her hands were on duty, not with fists, but with firm open hands of a karate guy and made brisk movements from right to left with her body as if somebody invisible was slapping her. 

Wide eyes and pointed lips, like in a prolonged “o” made me stop laughing and ask her if everything was ok. 

I asked her what she was looking at. 

She answered that she was looking for the waves, to avoid them to hit her, after her previous falls. You couldn’t stop laughing! 

We went out on the shore to practice some more the getting up on the board techniques. 

Getting up on the surfboard must be a quick, at-once movement. 

After you paddle a few times, when the wave is coming, when you feel its launching power, you must put your hands on your chest and, while doing a push-up, your right leg must be brought between your hands and then you get up and remain in a flexed knees position. 

If you get up straight, you fall, if you put your knee instead of your foot, you fall. 

This movement must be automatic and must be practiced thoroughly. 

The relationship between the wave and the getting-up movement is like the one between the clutch and the acceleration. 

After an hour of laughter, there was the first shout of joy. 

Lavinia rode her first wave for a few dozens of meters. 

Aris looks at her happy and says:

“Mommy, you are really talented!”

That was the last try of the day because it started raining and went home not to get wet. Tomorrow is a day off at surfing. 

Me and Aris have a passing otitis. 

We are applying an ancient treatment of alcohol and cider vinegar. 

A teaspoon of each. 

Into the ear..

Other than that, nothing, all’s good…

***
DRAGOSTEA PE VALURI

Lavinia s-a urcat astazi pentru prima data pe placa de surf. Ne-am distrat copios. 

Cazaturile au fost haios de spectaculoase iar fata cu care iesea dupa ce a fost tavalita de un val, cu greu poate fi descrisa in cuvinte. 

Mainile-i erau in garda, nu cu pumnii stransi ci cu palmele deschise si ferme ca ale unui karatist iar din corp se misca brusc stanga-dreapta de parca cineva invizibil o palmuia. 

Ochii mari si buzele tuguiate de parca ar fi spus un o prelung m-au facut sa ma opresc din ras si sa o intreb daca este ok. 

O intreb dupa ce se uita. Imi raspunde ca dupa val, sa nu o pocneasca din nou pentru ca cel anterior a dat-o de pamant de cateva ori. 

N-ai cum sa nu razi, nu ai cum! 

Am iesit pe mal sa reluam si sa exersam tehnicile de ridicare in picioare. 

Ridicarea pe placa de surf trebuie sa se intample dintr-o data. 

Cand vine valul, dupa ce ramezi de cateva ori pana-i simti puterea propulsatoare, trebuie sa-ti pui mainile la piept si in timp ce faci o flotare, piciorul drept trebuie adus intre maini dupa care te ridici si ramai in pozitie flexata. 

Daca te ridici drept precum o lumanare, cazi, daca pui genunchiul sa te sprijini, cazi. 

Aceasta ridicare trebuie sa devina mecanica si trebuie exersata. 

Relatia dintre val si ridicat este asemanatoare cu cea dintre ambreiaj si acceleratie.

Dupa o ora de ras, a iesit si primul strigat de bucurie. Lavinia a calarit primul val, cativa zeci de metri.

Aris se uita bucuros si-i zice:

– Mami, chiar ai talent!

Asta a fost ultima incercare a zile si n-am mai surfat pentru ca incepuse sa ploua si am iesit ca sa nu ne udam.

Maine vom lua o pauza de surf.

Eu si cu Aris am ramas intr-o ureche din cauza unei otite trecatoare.

Ne tratam babeste cu un amestec de alcool si otet de mere.

Cate o lingurita de fiecare.

In ureche.

In rest, nimic, toate bune…

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