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RED BEACH, UBATUBA- 16 MAY 2019 – SURFING LIFE!

17 May 2019

RED BEACH, UBATUBA- 16 MAY 2019 – SURFING LIFE!

Do not get attached, this is the idea.
To anything!
This way only you can be as much you can in the present, otherwise pieces of you will stay chained to things, situations or desires.
We want to enjoy life like the surfers their waves.
Today is a week since we’ve been back on the streets, like my father says.
No, it is not easy. We are still adjusting to the 5-sq-meter life, one for each of us.
We move slowly up the Brazilian coast, like a snail, but no traces.
Yesterday we only drove for 100km.
We stopped at the Red Beach in Ubatuba, the capital of Brazilian surfing.
In Brazil it’s now an autumn, or more of a rainy season. It rains a lot, but it is warm and when the sun comes out it turns very hot.
In summertime it’s even hotter so if you are the always-mumble-about-something kind, you won’t ever find comfort.
I am that kind, but I still like it.
I’ve got used to the mosquitoes, I’ve got used to the heat, I’ve got used to my square meter, I will soon become like water, I will take the form of the recipient I am put in.
Oh, God, we are so evanescent… I wonder why?
I think the answer lies in the moment and the moment is not to be missed!
***

Sa nu te atasezi, asta e ideea. De nimic! Numai asa poti fii cat mai mult in prezent altfel raman bucatele din tine legate de lucruri, situatii sau dorinte. Vrem sa ne bucuram de viata ca surferii de valuri.

Astazi s-a implinit o saptamana de cand suntem din nou pe drumuri cum ar zice tata. Nu, nu este usor. Inca ne reglam cu totii la viata in 5 metri patrati, cate unul pentru fiecare.

Inaintam incet pe coasta Braziliei, precum melcul dar fara urme.

Ieri am condus doar 100 de km. Ne-am oprit la Plaja Rosie din Ubatuba, capitala Surfului Brazilian.

In Brazilia este un fel de toamna sau mai bine zis anotimpul ploios. Ploua des, ce-i drept dar este cald iar cand iese soarele se face o zapuseala de lesini. In timpul verii mori de caldura asa ca daca esti tipul carcotas, nu-i bine nicicum.

Eu sunt tipul carcotas dar tot imi place!

M-am obisnuit cu tantarii, m-am obisnuit cu caldura, m-am obisnuit intr-un metru patrat, inca putin si am proprietatile apei, o sa iau forma vasului cat de curand.

O sa fiu baut si o sa devin altcineva iar dupa ceva timp, un procentaj voi fi pisat!

Cat de trecatori suntem Doamne…  Oare de ce, pana unde si cat?

Cred ca raspunsul e-n fiecare clipa si clipa nu-i de pierdut!

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